The Purple Paradigm: Your Definitive Guide to Rolex Dial Glamour

The Purple Paradigm: Your Definitive Guide to Rolex Dial Glamour

Collectors often overlook this aspect, but throughout history, the predominant hues adorning Rolex dials, and indeed most watch dials, have been silver, white, black, or champagne. It wasn't until the 1970s that blue dials began to gain some traction, while other colors have generally remained quite scarce. Purple Rolex dials, though uncommon, do exist in various forms. Some were originally produced in purple by the factory, while others acquired this hue through natural fading. This article aims to comprehensively explore every discernible variant of the purple Rolex dial.

Rolex Submariner Purple Dials

Certain Submariner Date models featuring blue dials produced between approximately 1970 and 2003 have exhibited a transformation into shades of purple over time. This change in color is believed to result from a blend of exposure to sunlight and a defect in the paint used. Predominantly, the phenomenon of purple dials is observed in models such as 16803, 16808, 16613, and 16618. Interestingly, even some of the earliest gold Submariner Date models (ref. 1680/8) have undergone this transformation. The purple hue typically manifests as a rich tone, although some dials display brighter violet hues, especially when exposed to sunlight.

Aubergine Dials

If you're eyeing a new purple Rolex, your sole option lies in the captivating Aubergine dial. Introduced in 2018, these dials remain an exclusive feature reserved for Datejust models sized at 36mm or smaller, all adorned with exquisite diamonds. Despite its allure, the limited popularity of this hue likely stems from the obligatory imposing diamond VI marker on the 31mm and 36mm variants. Notably, aubergine dials eschew a smooth steel bezel, as they invariably boast diamond embellishments; Rolex maintains a steadfast tradition of refraining from pairing diamond dials with steel bezels.

Red Grape Dials

In 2014, Rolex unveiled its inaugural "red grape" dial, initially exclusive to the 36mm Oyster Perpetual (ref. 116000). However, by 2015, the captivating hue became available across all five sizes of the Oyster Perpetual lineup then offered: 26mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 39mm. Rolex incorporated subtle design elements to differentiate the sizes: Roman numerals adorned the 31mm rendition, intriguing pink accents adorned each hour marker on the 34mm variant, and the 36mm iteration boasted double batons at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Nevertheless, with the introduction of a new generation of Oyster Perpetuals in 2020, all red grape dials were discontinued, marking a departure from this distinctive aesthetic. Notably, Rolex has never reintroduced the red grape dial on any other model ever since.

Faded Purple Rolex Datejusts/Day-Dates

Over the years, I've encountered only a handful of gently weathered purple Datejusts and Day-Dates, distinct from the ubiquitous purple Submariners, suggesting a rarity in paint defects. These anomalies probably stem from an unlikely blend of moisture exposure, sunlight, and occasional imperfections in the paint application. PnFtimes recently showcased the most exquisite instance of a faded purple Rolex Day-Date that has ever graced my sight.

Lavender Datejust 1601

In recent years, a select few lavender Datejust 1601 dials have surfaced for sale, such as the one featured at Fratello. Their delicate purple tint is so subdued that numerous collectors mistakenly perceive them as originally silver. While it remains a possibility, the consistent occurrence of these dials on 1601 models dating back to around 1970 suggests they were likely produced in this distinct shade.

Lavender Jubilee Dials

Between 1985 and 2022, Rolex showcased "Jubilee dials" across various Datejust and Day-Date models. These dials feature an intricately laser-engraved ROLEXROLEXROLEX motif and have been crafted in an array of hues throughout the years. Among them, Lavender Jubilee dials stand out as perhaps the most exceptional in rarity. Witness this exquisite example from Apr57 adorning an early-2000s Day-Date timepiece.

Lavender and Lilac Striped Dials

Between the years 2017 and 2021, Rolex introduced a collection of intriguing striped dials featuring five distinct hues, including two shades of purple: lilac and lavender, alongside linden, cornflower blue, and mint green (a departure from the current mint green Datejust dials). These unique creations were exclusively offered on the 28mm Lady-Datejust model, yet garnered minimal spotlight. Consequently, these striped Lady-Datejust timepieces stand as rare gems within the realm of Rolex craftsmanship.

Purple Rolex Stella Dials

Rolex Stella dials, enriched with vibrant lacquer pigments sourced from Stella, are renowned for their vivid hues. Production of Stella Day-Dates spanned from approximately 1970 to 1992, rendering them highly coveted and commanding significant value in today's collector's market. Exhibiting an extensive spectrum of colors, the purple variants stand out as exceptionally rare finds. Despite their scarcity, Robert Maron once facilitated the sale of one such piece, attesting to their elusive nature, with even locating images proving to be a challenge.

While Stella Day-Dates typically steal the limelight, there were also select ladies' Datejust models adorned with Stella dials, albeit lacking the coveted purple tint. Nevertheless, speculation persists regarding the existence of a 36mm purple Stella Datejust from the late 1980s. Notably, per @jaystimezone_, Rolex produced an R-series Datejust featuring a "special lavender color dial tailored for the Asian market," a specimen shared by @johnson167, boasting the unmistakable allure of Stella's richly pigmented aesthetic.

Purple Rolex Stone Dials

Rolex incorporates an array of minerals into their stone dials, among which three exude a captivating shade of purple:

  1. Sugilite dials, boasting a resplendent deep purple hue, are exclusive to Japan and grace only 26mm Datejust models from the 1990s.
  2. Rubellite dials, with their enchanting reddish-purple allure, are predominantly encountered on vintage Rolex Day-Dates, rendering them truly striking.
  3. The Carousel of Lavender Jade dials, a fleeting marvel, adorned the Day-Date 36 models exclusively between 2016 and 2019.

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