Luxury watch buyers can choose from metal, rubber, fabric, or leather straps, with "leather" encompassing various styles and species across a wide price range. Leather straps are found on both inexpensive and high-end watches, sourced from diverse animals like cows, horses, alligators, and goats. This article explores the pros and cons of commonly used leather types for watch straps.
Calfskin Leather Watch Straps
Calfskin stands out as the preferred leather for luxury watch straps, offering a solid all-around choice. Unlike the lower-tier split-grain or corrected-grain cowhide, calfskin is considered more high-end. While budget options may use split-grain or bonded leather, genuine calfskin straps are typically priced over $50, sometimes exceeding $100. Known for its superior texture and appearance, calfskin is a premium choice, even endorsed by Rolex for their dress model, the 1908 Perpetual.
Pros of Calfskin Watch Straps:
- Wide range of price options, catering to various budgets.
- Diverse selection of colors for aesthetic versatility.
- Comfortable and attractive on thicker or sportier watches.
- Some variants offer water resistance, particularly vegetable-tanned options.
Cons of Calfskin Watch Straps:
- Limited durability compared to alternatives.
- Lack of water resistance in non-vegetable-tanned options.
Shell Cordovan Watch Straps
Shell Cordovan, derived from a horse's hindquarters membrane, not the hide itself, undergoes a lengthy tanning process dating back over 1,400 years to Cordoba, Spain. In my view, it stands out as the best leather for watch straps. Offering exceptional comfort, a pleasing sheen, and durability, thin Shell Cordovan straps complement smaller watches. However, for a dive watch with a 22mm lug width, especially if thickness is needed, other options may be more suitable. Thick cordovan can lose some tactile appeal, and some prefer less glossy straps for sports watches. Nonetheless, when ordering a custom watch strap, I often opt for Shell Cordovan.
Pros of Shell Cordovan Watch Straps:
- Exceptional durability, surpassing calf leather.
- Unparalleled comfort, often considered the finest leather globally.
- Ideal for thin or dressy watch applications.
- Slight natural water resistance.
Cons of Shell Cordovan Watch Straps:
- Higher cost compared to calf leather.
- Not optimal for thicker or sportier watches.
- Limited color options.
Alligator Leather Watch Straps
Alligator leather, a luxurious choice for watch straps, comes with a hefty price tag and a shiny appearance. While not exceptionally comfy, it offers a unique feel akin to well-worn high-quality cowboy boots—somewhat stiff yet pleasantly distinct. It won't "disappear" on your wrist like suede or cordovan. Adored by many collectors, it lacks breathability, making it less suitable for athletic activities.
Pros of Alligator Leather Watch Straps:
- Very durable, ensuring a long lifespan.
- Shiny and luxurious appearance adds a touch of elegance.
- Some natural water resistance, providing added protection.
- Cool texture enhances the overall aesthetic.
Cons of Alligator Leather Watch Straps:
- Expensive, with costs typically exceeding $200.
- Not suitable for exercise or strenuous activities.
What’s the Difference Between a Crocodile and Alligator Watch Strap?
Crocodile leather has a slightly rougher texture with an irregular scale pattern compared to gator leather, which is shinier and often considered more luxurious. Despite these distinctions, they are extremely similar, with both being attractive, durable, and high-quality leathers. However, importing croc straps into the US has become rare due to CITES regulations, making the choice between gator or croc often influenced by local import laws. Some find alligator products less problematic, as gators are widely farmed in places like Louisiana and Texas, while crocodiles face increasing endangerment.
Sharkskin Watch Straps
Sharkskin, a robust exotic material for watch straps, may lack comfort alone but is often lined with Alcantara or calfskin for added comfort. Highly durable and water-resistant, it comes at a higher cost, with ethical considerations due to shark endangerment concerns. While visually appealing, its unique look might not suit everyone for everyday wear.
Pros of Sharkskin Watch Straps:
- Extremely durable, ensuring longevity.
- Strong natural water resistance for added protection.
- Unique look adds a distinctive aesthetic.
- Suitable for large watches, providing versatility.
Cons of Sharkskin Watch Straps:
- Expensive, often exceeding $200 in cost.
- Ethical concerns associated with the use of sharkskin.
- Stiff texture may affect comfort
Goat Leather Watch Straps
Goat leather was not widely used for watch straps until recently. Its popularity in the watch industry has risen rapidly due to its durability and appealing appearance. Brands like Kurono now offer models with goat leather straps. The leather has a "cool to the touch" feel, making it ideal for hot weather. While slightly less pliable than calf leather, goat leather generally has few downsides.
Pros of Goat Leather Watch Straps:
- Relatively affordable, with high-quality examples typically under $120.
- Durable, ensuring a reasonable lifespan.
- Provides a "cool" feel, making it suitable for summer wear.
Cons of Goat Leather Watch Straps:
- Somewhat stiff texture may affect comfort.
Suede Watch Straps
Suede stands out as the most comfortable leather, rivaling even shell cordovan. It offers a warm and fuzzy feel, akin to sweatpants on your wrist. Opt for quality suede, as the cheaper alternatives might disappoint. The downside lies in durability, with a need for replacement when the watch is serviced. Some suede straps have calf leather lining to mitigate sweat absorption, but I appreciate the pure suede experience despite its transient nature.
Pros of Suede Watch Straps:
- Relatively affordable, with high-quality examples typically under $120.
- Extremely comfortable, providing a pleasant wearing experience.
- Feels "warm," making it ideal for winter wear.
Cons of Suede Watch Straps:
- Not very durable, may have a shorter lifespan.
- No water resistance whatsoever, requiring extra caution in wet conditions.
While we haven't covered every leather type, such as stingray, ostrich belly, lizard, python, and elephant leather, this list offers an overview of common varieties. The versatility of leather straps allows easy swapping, offering flexibility for preferences. Luxury watch enthusiasts now enjoy a vast array of strap options, providing ample choices for customization.
