Patek Philippe, famous for its exorbitantly priced timepieces, has produced some of the most expensive watches in history. Despite its reputation for grand complications and high-profile sports models, there are relatively affordable options available. While "affordable" is subjective in the realm of Patek Philippe, considering their typical six to seven-figure price tags, spending a few thousand dollars seems like a deal. Exploring entry-level models can be a smart entry point into the esteemed world of Patek Philippe before investing in pricier options. Here are some entry-level Patek Philippe watches worth considering.
Glamour Redefined: The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 for Ladies
While Patek Philippe keeps its production and financial details private, insiders suggest that the ladies’ Twenty~4 watch is its bestseller. Introduced in 1999, the Twenty~4 features an Art Deco-inspired design with a rectangular case and quartz movement. It gained popularity for its affordability and style, with options in steel or rose gold and variations in jewelry and straps. In 2018, Patek expanded the line to include round and automatic models, which are pricier. Among entry-level options, the Twenty~4 ref. 4910 quartz models are the most budget-friendly. A new stainless steel 4910 retails for $15,970, but pre-owned ones can be found for around $7,000. Rose gold versions are available on the secondary market starting at $19,000.
Sleek Sophistication: The Calatrava Dress Watch
Introduced in 1932, the Calatrava stands as Patek Philippe’s quintessential dress watch line, marked by its sleek round cases, understated proportions, and simple dials. Despite its evolution with new models offering diverse sizes, functions, metals, and dials, the collection maintains its core essence — discreet dress watches that epitomize understated luxury.
Beyond their refined aesthetics, the Calatrava series also offers more budget-friendly options, especially in its older and smaller variants. For instance, the manual-winding Calatrava 3796J, launched in the early 1980s, boasts a compact 31mm yellow gold case adorned with the iconic hobnail bezel. Available on the secondary market, this reference typically sells for around $14,000. For those seeking larger and more contemporary designs, the 37mm Calatrava ref. 5196, introduced in 2004, comes in white, yellow, or rose gold, with pre-owned models starting at approximately $17,000. Alternatively, the current production 39mm Calatrava ref. 5227 models, offered in various gold tones, retail for $40,220 but pre-owned versions can be found starting at around $25,000.
In summary, the Calatrava line presents a plethora of choices, rendering it an excellent option for those seeking entry-level Patek Philippe timepieces.
Mid-Century Magic: Golden Ellipse
In 1968, Patek Philippe launched the Golden Ellipse, incorporating the Golden Ratio for its elliptical case, a blend of circle and rectangle. The distinctive blue-gold dial paired with the harmonious silhouette made it a huge success. Over the years, Patek Philippe expanded the Golden Ellipse range, offering various models for men and women, including accessories like cufflinks and jewelry. Today, the collection has narrowed to three references, but the secondary market offers more options, making it ideal for entry-level Patek Philippe buyers. For example, the long-standing ref. 3738 was produced from 1978 to 2009, priced at $14,000 to $20,000 for pre-owned pieces, while ladies’ models start at around $5,500.
Making Waves: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Sports Watch
The Aquanaut, a standout in Patek Philippe's lineup, is considered entry-level compared to the iconic Nautilus. It's designed as a more affordable version, featuring a similar bezel but without the distinctive "hinges" and sporting a rubber strap instead of the Nautilus' integrated bracelet. While available with various complications, simpler time and date versions are the standard options.
The current Aquanaut reference 5167A-001, featuring a 40.8mm steel case and rubber strap, retails for $24,250 but commands higher prices in the secondary market, starting at $47,000 and surpassing $70,000. An entry-level alternative, the older 36mm ref. 5066A, starts around $35,000. Women's quartz models like the ref. 4960A begin below $20,000.
Angles of Elegance: Explore Patek Philippe's Vintage Squares
Consider exploring an often-overlooked segment of Patek Philippe's archives for entry-level gold watches priced below $10,000. Vintage Patek models with square and rectangular cases offer intriguing options. For instance, the Patek Philippe ref. 2433 (1950s) features a square case in yellow, pink, or white gold, a manual winding movement, and a time-only dial with a running seconds indicator. Another option is the Patek Philippe ref. 2488 "Carré-Tortue" (French for squared turtle), boasting a similarly shaped case with a thicker crystal and fancier lugs. These vintage Art Deco timepieces provide compelling choices for those interested in Patek Philippe at an accessible price point.
The Oddball: Neptune
While the Nautilus and Aquanaut are well-known among watch enthusiasts, the Neptune, named after the Roman god of the sea, often goes unnoticed. Introduced by Patek Philippe in 1996 and discontinued in the mid-2000s, the Neptune was a water-inspired sports watch featuring a distinctive link bracelet resembling scales.
Despite its short production run, Patek offered various models for both men and women. Among them, the Neptune ref. 5080 and ref. 5085 stand out as entry-level options. The Neptune 5080, available in steel and two-tone steel and gold, features a 36.5mm case with an engine-turned bezel and offers different dial colors. Prices typically start from $15,000.
The Neptune ref. 5085, launched in 1998, marked Patek Philippe's first complicated watch with a steel case in its catalog. Its black dial integrates moon phases, date, power reserve, and running seconds at 4 o'clock. Prices for the Neptune 5085 typically start from $25,000.
